A little piece of my peace - Kashi

Two years ago, my sister and I set out across a few northern states. She’s a master planner — honestly, she could start a travel agency and make it a hit overnight. But why am I writing about it now? Because of one reel. One short Instagram reel that popped up yesterday and brought back everything — the sounds, the smells, the air of Kashi. And that’s how I knew I still carry Kashi in my heart.

They say Kashi has many names — and each reflects what you seek:

• Kashi to those who believe in death and beyond,

• Varanasi to those who live for the rhythm of life, and

• Banaras for those who believe in love.

Kashi looks exactly like what you believe in.

I went there as someone who believed in Banaras — the city of love and light.

Staying there made me appreciate Varanasi — the living, breathing pulse of devotion.

But coming back, I realized that to me, it will always be Kashi — ancient, deeply personal, and one place where death is also celebrated.

Day 1: 16th December, 2023

After a long train delay, my sister and I finally reached Varanasi Junction in the late afternoon. Hungry, we went straight to Bhati Chauka Restaurant, an old, authentic place known for its Dal Baati Churma. The food was simple, delicious, and pure comfort.

Sitting beside a group of foreign travelers, I noticed how excited my sister was to try something new, always.

By evening, we reached our small PG near Assi Ghat. After a quick rest, we headed out to witness the Ganga Aarti. Sitting beside the river as the lamps flickered and chants echoed was overwhelming — the Ganga feels alive there, as if it’s living beside us.

Later, we walked to Vatika Pizzeria, a cozy spot right by the ghat, known for its pizzas and apple pie. The place was crowded; we even shared our table with a couple just to get a seat. Over pizza, dessert, and quiet laughter, we ended our first day full — in both heart and stomach.

Day 2: 17th December, 2023

We had plans to see the morning Aarti — but the cold was bone-deep, and even as Bangaloreans used to mild winters, this was another level. So we stayed bundled in until the sun peeked through.

That morning, we heard the Prime Minister was visiting Kashi, so we had to reshuffle our plans a bit.

Breakfast was at the legendary Ram Bhandar, famous for its kachori and jalebi. It took us almost an hour to get a seat, but every bite was worth it — the kind of meal that stays in your memory forever.

Later enjoying the galli's of Varanasi, we found our way to Kalabhairava Temple with the little help of Google Maps. This place is very small but powerful, we went in to seek the blessings and kind priest told us about the place with all his love in heart for the place.

In between, we had a pomegranate kesar lassi from Blue Lassi Shop, and tasted the frothy winter delicacy, malaiyo, from a nearby vendor.

The famous Malaiyo

Then we made our way to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. After a long queue, we finally stood before the sanctum — the feeling was beyond words. We later learned that Prasad lunch is served at the temple — something we’ve promised ourselves for our next trip.

That evening, we dressed up again and took a boat ride to see the Sandhya Aarti. Watching it from the water — 40 to 50 ghats glowing under the lamps — was otherworldly. Each ghat felt alive with its own story.

Dinner was light and street-style — some chatpata snacks as we walked back to our PG, hearts full and feet tired.

Day 3: 18th December, 2023

The next morning, we booked a cab to the Garden of Spiritual Wisdom and explored temples built by Jains, Japanese, and Taiwanese devotees. It was fascinating to see how faith connects across borders.

Later, we decided to try the famous Tamatar Chaat — though what we ate, we later realized, wasn’t the real thing at all! 😅

After a few hours of roaming, we returned to Vatika Pizzeria for one last meal overlooking the Ganga — our quiet ritual by then.

Before heading to the airport, we remembered one thing we hadn’t done — eat a Banarasi Paan! Earlier, a policeman at Kashi Vishwanath had laughed and said:

“Aap Varanasi aaye, aapka samaan chori nahi hua, Kashi Vishwanath ke darshan nah kiye, aur Banarasi paan nahi khaya — toh kya khak Banaras dekha aapne?”

When we told this to our cab driver, he smiled knowingly and took us to a famous paan shop: Keshav Paan bhandar — the one where every celebrity has eaten. His only request was that we buy him one too.

We got the VIP Paan, and with the first bite came an explosion of flavors. My sister and I didn’t laugh this time — we just sat in silence, savoring our last few moments in Kashi as the cab moved toward the airport.

That was how our week-long journey — from Amritsar to Mathura–Vrindavan to Kashi — came to an end. A trip full of stories, smiles, and stillness.

Manikarnika — The Ghat of Truth

I didn’t write much earlier about Manikarnika Ghat, right beside Kashi Vishwanath. To be honest, I couldn’t bring myself to go near it for long. The energy there — the endless fire, the hard truth about acceptance of death — is something words can’t explain.

It’s not a place to describe. It’s a place to feel. Manikarnika doesn’t frighten; it humbles. It reminds you how fragile, and how sacred, life really is.

Until We Meet Again, Kashi

No matter where I travel in the world, I know I would want to go to Kashi again — and again.

Maybe just to sit on a ghat with a cup of lemon tea and a thought.

Maybe one day to sit closer to Manikarnika, to watch everything — love, ego, pride, jealousy — turn to ash and float away.

That’s it for this week —

See you soon with another one.

Cheerios! 💛